Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Chinese School - 36 hours in Shanghai







CITYLIFE / Odds & Ends






36 hours in Shanghai

(New York Times)
Updated: 2007-04-23 11:22





On a cool autumn night, Shanghai is drenched in light. Billboards are
flashing, highway lights are pulsing, and tall buildings seem to have
been converted into giant television screens. China's showcase city
appears to be showing off, decorating itself as though it's Asia's Las
Vegas. This is China's financial capital, its fashion center and,
clearly, its coolest metropolis. Be prepared for a city on steroids, and
one banking on long-term hyper-growth. In a country increasingly
populated by grimy, characterless cities, Shanghai is also far and away
China's most attractive city, particularly after nightfall.

Friday

6 p.m.
1) A WALK ALONG THE BUND

The most spectacular view of Shanghai can be seen at night from the Bund,
a historic waterfront area that sits on the west bank of the Huangpu
River. Hulking stone structures built in the 1920's and 30's by the
colonial powers that once dominated this city have been handsomely
renovated and transformed into upscale bars, restaurants and retailers.
Walk along the promenade and look out across the river toward the city's
booming financial district, Pudong, which is packed with futuristic
skyscrapers and flashy neon-lit billboards. The Hongkong and Shanghai
Banking Corporation, now known as HSBC, once had headquarters on the
Bund, and the building's foyer at No. 12 is gorgeously restored with
murals and carvings. Also notable are the Custom House and the Art Deco
Peace Hotel (20 Nanjing Road East, 86-21-6321-6888). A building known as
Three on the Bund, however, is in perhaps the city's most impressive
location (86-21-6321-7733). The interior was elegantly redesigned by
Michael Graves. On the ground level is Giorgio Armani. On the third floor
is the hip Shanghai Gallery of Art, where one gets a nice view of the
building's splendid atrium.



8 p.m.
2) RESTAURANT ON RESTAURANT

A nice way to start off a trip to Shanghai is with dinner at Laris, one
of the superb restaurants at Three on the Bund. It is decorated in
soothing colors and cool marble. From your table, you can often catch a
glimpse of the river and Pudong's space-age skyline. The chef, David
Laris, who is Australian Greek, likes fresh ingredients and international
flavors. He serves up some wonderful raw oysters; also try the sumptuous
beef tenderloin with pancetta and the foie gras terrine with porcini
mushrooms (dinner for two, about 790 yuan, or $100 at 8 yuan to $1). On
the building's fifth floor is the Whampoa Club, whose Art Deco entrance
�� with a touch of Asia �� is exquisite. Another winner is Jean Georges
Shanghai, the restaurant on the fourth floor named for its creator, the
internationally recognized chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. You can also
visit the top floor and New Heights, which has outdoor seating for dinner
or simply drinks.



10:30 p.m.
3) A BAR NAMED GLAMOUR

You don't have to leave the Bund to find a great bar and lounge. Across
the street from Three on the Bund is No. 5 on the Bund (entrance on
Guangdong Road), home to M on the Bund, a popular dining spot for foreign
visitors and China's nouveau riche. On the sixth floor, the Glamour Bar
is one of the best places in the city to relax with a drink. The lounge
(86-21-6350-9988) has a 1930's style decoration with a hip, contemporary
twist. Try the litchi martini for about 67 yuan. Just down the road, at
No. 18 on the Bund, is Bar Rouge, another stylish fashion bar, often
crowded with China's equivalent of the Hollywood set.

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